» Main Index
» Search This Site
» Submit Update
» Contact Us
|
Home > London >
E8 > Crown & Castle
Crown & Castle
|
Picture source: Chris Amies |
|
|
The Crown and Castle was situated at 600
Kingsland Road. Now used as a noodle bar. |
|
This pub was present under this name
by 1861 and I think it may well be the same as an earlier pub called the Cock
& Castle, present here by 1818 when it was acquired by Combe’s Brewery from
a brewery called Dickinson & Co. of Clerkenwell. Ownership passed to Watney,
Combe Reid and by the early 1980s it was known for live music, usually with
an Irish flavour. The pub closed in 2006 and was converted to restaurant
use. |
Stephen Harris |
|
I’ve told my twenty year-old son Leo a
few stories about my brief tenure as barkeep at the Crown and Castle on
Highland Road in Hackney. He asked me if I would go back, were I in London
again. “Well, why not?” I asked. A few good stories, a few good pints, let
the memories and the laughter flow again.
So today I looked up the pub, to see if I could find it on the map, and
whether it was still open in the same form. I’m grateful for the information
that closedpubs.co.uk gave me, but disappointed to see that the pub is now a
Chinese noodle bar. Nothing against noodle bars, mind you, but it’s not what
comes to mind when I think of my youth in Hackney. England conjures
different flavors and textures, most of them English, even if it is a world
crossroads.
In 1994 I arrived in London after travels in South Asia. Out of money, and
recovering from dysentery, the first great challenge was to find housing. I
spent a week with an old friend, before I met Hugh and Yolanda, proprietors
of a vegan restaurant on the East Side called Pumpkins. They were proud of
their little anarchist diner, where it was joked “there are no orders.” Hugh
and Yolanda had an offer for me that I couldn’t refuse. They had a flat
nearby, under reconstruction, and I could “squat” there for free. My
presence would serve to deter more traditional squatters, who might move in
and never leave. To sweeten the deal for them, I promised to move out
whenever they asked me to.
Pumpkins had only eight or so hours of work every week for me. It wasn’t
enough to buy groceries, much less save for an airplane ticket. After a
long, desperate search for an under-the-table employer willing to take a
chance on an emaciated American, I found the glorious Crown and Castle, in
Hackney, London.
In 1994 the Crown and Castle was notable for two reasons. First, while it
was an Irish pub by day, it was a Jamaican nightclub by night. Between
afternoon and early evening, it would go from sleepy neighbors quaffing
stout, to garrulous, chain-smoking denizens of Britain’s infinite horizons
filling its space. By nine p.m. the band had set up, the opacity of the
smoke screen had filled in, and the real party began.
The second notable quality of the Crown and Castle was that it had an
official, permitted close time of 1 a.m. Effectively, this meant 3 a.m. And
while other pubs closed at 11 on the weekends, the C&C stayed open. This
meant that everyone in the neighborhood not ready to quit drinking, smoking,
and fighting came to us. And suddenly the place was more crowded, thicker
with smoke, louder yet with the sounds of a reggae band as space became more
limited.
Most varieties of British accent I could understand reasonably well. This
was nowhere near true in a crowded pub, with live music. Pointing and
gesturing became a more dependable way to order from the American. At one
point, the governor of the place told me to get some “Tyler pepper.” He
repeated this a dozen times or so, yelling at my face, with both of us
getting quite frustrated. I had no idea what he was talking about, until a
Brit with a softer accent translated for us. One of the bathrooms needed
toilet paper.
In bars in America, a bartender earns a low wage, like $7/hour, and makes
the bulk of his pay off tips. In the UK, tipping the bartender is rare. As
an illegal worker, I was paid just 20 quid cash for each shift I worked. My
shifts began at 4, and usually went until 3 a.m. On top of that low pay, no
tips. But one night, a regular, who appeared to be friends with the
governor, surreptitiously gave me a 20 pound tip BEFORE the night began. It
wasn’t clear to me why, but I was pretty sure he was not coming on to me,
and that perhaps he was trying to buy his drinks in advance. That is, bribe
me to not charge him for the numerous drinks he would be consuming that
night. Sure enough, when he ordered his second mixed drink twenty minutes
later, he offered no payment. When I asked him for it, he beckoned for me to
lean toward him, and he said into my ear that he’d already paid for as many
drinks as he cared to order that night. “Bullshit!” I yelled in his face,
and I pulled the drink back. “Pay for it or get the fuck out.” He paid
reluctantly, then made a threatening motion to me that he would be cutting
my throat later in the evening.
As I pulled pints, and mixed and served drinks, this was the future that I
dwelled upon. At the end of my shift, I would be killed, or just beaten up,
by one or more of the patrons. I had done a decent job of posturing, showing
him that I was ready to fight, to kill him right back. I shouted him down
and shook my fist in his face. The governor, and other patrons, if they
bothered to look, had a little show to watch. The American and the regular,
facing off.
At the end of the night I was hyper-aware. Ready to run, or ready to fight.
I was alone in London, without a friend nearby, and not sure what I was
facing. I mentioned to the governor that someone would be waiting for me,
and he told me not to worry. I left the pub at 3:30 without confrontation.
Every following shift I worked I sold the man drinks in the usual way, and
no threats or hard feelings were expressed again. In hindsight, I believe
the whole thing was a test. Had I taken the bribe, I would have had a
different type of confrontation, and likely my face would have met the fist
of the 26 stone (360 lbs) bar owner. I made the right call.
Ten hours of smoke and beer had a way of keeping a man awake, long after his
shift. I soon developed a habit of finishing the night with a large can of
Foster’s lager. I’d carry it as I walked home, and I stopped for late-night
chocolate muffins at the Ridley Road bagel bakery. This diet, complemented
by Tesco egg and cress sandwiches, and many, many cans of baked beans, put
most of my weight back on.
Another feature of the Crown and Castle that I never took for granted was
the civilized fist fighting that took place every night. I’m not much for it
myself, and in my condition would not have fared well. What I was thankful
for was that Brits could settle their differences in this somewhat simple
manner. There were many times I’d watch drunks punching each other out, and
reflect “If this were happening in the US, bouncers, gangs, cops, and guns
would enter the mix.” The tension in an American bar is a different beast.
We know there’s a different endgame, so we hold back, most of the time, and
the rage builds up without a way to express it. Put it this way: We don’t
trust one another to fight with our fists.
Not surprisingly, my employment at the Crown and Castle, and at Pumpkins,
ended shortly after I’d saved enough money for a plane ticket to Los
Angeles. I’d been carrying hundreds of pounds cash in my money belt,
everywhere and all the time. I finally put that money into a ticket, and
stopped worrying about losing it to the tough neighborhood of London I was
living in. Before I left, I took a weekend holiday to Scotland, and said
goodbye to the friends I’d met. Unlike at other jobs, I gave the C&C short
notice of my departure. I finished my Saturday night, and informed them I
would not be in the next Thursday. I was headed back to America, to complete
the circle and my journey. |
Drew Shonka (May 2017) |
|
This pub has now reopened. |
Gerry Ranson (March 2020) |
|
The pub was built in or just before
1859, on land owned by St Bartholomew's Hospital. The Cock & Castle, also
mentioned here, was at 148 Kingsland High St (now Nando's) & in its long
life, has been on 3 seperate corners of the junction of Kingsland High
Street, Shacklewell Lane,, Stoke Newington Rd & Crossways. |
Marcus Brooked (March 2020) |
|
|
Do you have any anecdotes, historical information, updates or photos of this pub? Become a contributor by submitting them here. Like this site? Follow us on
Make email contact with other ex-customers and landlords of this pub by adding your details to this page. |
|
Other Photos |
|
Date of photo: 1880s |
Picture source: Charlie
Goodwin |
|
|